A writers’ conference in Seville? Count me in!
One of the perks of living in Europe, particularly in the Eastern Algarve, is that it’s a quick trip across the border to Spain. Recently, I attended a writers’ conference in Seville, just a two-hour bus ride from Tavira. The bus dropped me at the Plaza de Armas, which is where the event was held. My hotel was right next to the event center and for those of you who know me, you will NOT be surprised that I was THRILLED to find a Mercadona grocery right there, too! In all, a five-minute walk from the bus station to the hotel. No Uber, no taxi. Easy-peasy.
Nestled in the heart of Andalusia, Seville draws travelers with its rich tapestry of history, culture, and architectural marvels. I had visited before, but hadn’t done much more than wander a few streets and hit the Costco. This time, I got a much better feel for the city. The conference arranged a walking tour for the first thirty attendees who raised their hands and it filled up quickly.
Side Note: I am becoming a BIG FAN of walking tours. It is a fantastic way to learn about the area—the layout, the history, and culture. I have visited a lot of places and come back with little to no knowledge of where I was and what I had seen. This, of course, means that I have to go back to those places. All is not lost.
We met up with our tour guide, Joaquin (“Like Joaquin Phoenix, but no relation”) in Plaza del Ayuntamiento, below the big clock of the New City Hall. This architectural gem offers a glimpse into Seville’s evolving narrative. City Hall is a striking juxtaposition of old and new: One side boasts modern design, while the remainder anchors the building in centuries-old charm. It was a fitting introduction to the city’s captivating blend of tradition and innovation.
Barrio Santa Cruz and the Jewish Quarter
From there, our exploration led us to the Jewish quarter. In 1248, King Ferdinand III set aside this area for Jews to live in relative peace. At the time, Seville had the second largest Jewish population on the Iberian Peninsula. Steeped in history, this quarter offers a poignant reminder of Seville’s multicultural heritage and its history of religious intolerance, from the Inquisition to the expulsion of all Jews from the city in 1492.
Throughout our tour, our guide related fascinating anecdotes and insights, snippets of historical gossip as well as his own current knowledge of the city. He led us through a labyrinth of narrow back streets. At one point we walked Callejón del agua (“Water Alley or Street”), so named because this section of the city wall has two Roman aquaducts—the Caños de Carmona—which brought water from a spring to the city. A few people on the tour were lucky enough to catch a glimpse of a peacock showing off in the Royal Gardens. (I, of course, missed it. But hey, my old neighborhood in Clearwater had peacocks running around, so there’s that.)
The Cathedral of Seville
No visit to Seville would be complete without a stop at its crowning jewel—the awe-inspiring Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See. The Cathedral, like many churches and cathedrals in the Old World, is built over and around an earlier structure, the Mosque of Ibn ‘Addabas. Dominating the skyline with its towering Giralda bell tower, this Gothic masterpiece leaves an indelible impression. The bell tower, of course, is the original minaret, which dates from the 12th century and still stands.
Since it’s a cathedral, I’ll offer a confession: This is the second time I have visited the Cathedral and I STILL haven’t gone inside. I am fairly sure that the place will not fall down just because I walked inside, but I think the people of Seville would be a little miffed if my muddied soul caused the building to collapse. You can’t be too careful.
Right next to the Cathedral is the Real Alcázar de Sevilla aka, the palace. Its construction began in the 10th century, back in the days of Muslim rule, which makes it one of the oldest palaces in Europe. It has, over the centuries, undergone various additions and renovations, from Moorish, to Gothic, Renaissance and even Baroque, each transition marking whoever was top of the food chain at the time. It’s been the home of rulers from Moorish caliphs right up to current day. It is one of the palaces of King Felipe VI, but it is rarely used as a residence. I checked: He wasn’t hanging out that weekend. The Alcazar and its grounds are a UNESCO World Heritage site, and if you make it to Seville, definitely take the full tour.
A Proper End to the Tour
We were fortunate that the rain held off for the duration of the tour. It was a bit windy and chilly as we went towards the river to look across at the area known as Triana. The Triana district has been called “the most charming neighborhood in Seville.” We didn’t have time to cross the river and explore, but it’s definitely on my “must-see” list for my next visit. The neighborhood is popular for its food stalls, flamenco shows, and its pottery and tile industry.
We continued on to the bullring and the guide talked about the history of bullfighting as well as the current controversies. We were off-season for the bullfights (the season starts around Easter each year), but this bullring is the site of one of the largest bullfighting festivals of the year. It can seat 12,000 people and if seeing a bullfight is on your bucket list, this is the place to be.
Joaquin ended the tour by bringing us back to an area with plenty of tapas restaurants and very good wine. (I hear… No, of course I had wine!) He had another tour to get to, but he made sure that we would be well fed and watered—a perfect host.
Seville is a city that deserves several days’ stay. The walking tour merely served to whet my appetite to fully explore the area. I spent the next two days in meetings but I did manage to get out to several restaurants including one in the shadow of “Las Setas” or “the mushroom,” the largest wooden structure in the world. It’s a series of six “parasols,” sort of resembling mushrooms. I don’t understand it, but there it is. All kidding aside, it has walkways that give you fantastic views of the city as well as a restaurant, and, in the basement, a collection of important Roman remains.
Seville is very much a walkable city with plenty to do and see. I find more to like with each visit and I will definitely make time on my next trip to check out the area across the river, as well as finally (FINALLY) actually go into the Cathedral and explore the palace grounds. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a culture aficionado, or simply a curious traveler, Seville promises an unforgettable experience that transcends time and leaves an indelible mark on the soul, however muddied.
